Ferry from Sifnos to Folegandros.

Sifnos to Folegandros takes you from one of the gentlest islands of the western Cyclades to one of the most dramatic. Sifnos is known for its food, its walking paths between villages and the easy-going port of Kamares. Folegandros is smaller and steeper, with a Chora set right on the edge of a cliff and a slow, quiet pace that many visitors say is the whole point of going.

This is a useful link for island-hoppers working their way south from Piraeus. Instead of going via Milos, you can go straight from Sifnos to Folegandros, and from there on to Sikinos, Ios or Santorini. It is not a busy route, though. Ferryhopper lists 4 to 7 sailing days a week, and in last year's monthly table the only year-round operator was Fast Ferries, on 3 to 5 days a week.

The fare difference is dramatic. Fast Ferries and the occasional winter Blue Star ship charge single figures, while Seajets fares ran from €57.70 to €104.60 in last year's data, for a crossing that is not much quicker. Notably, Seajets did not appear on this route in July or August at all, so in high summer the conventional ship is usually your only choice.

Check the routing on your ticket. On our sample day in August the Fast Ferries ship called at Milos on the way and took 3 hr 40 min, far longer than its usual time. That is fine if you plan for it, but it matters if you are counting on arriving in Folegandros for lunch.

Heading south-east from Sifnos, you cross exposed water where the summer meltemi, strongest in July and August, can build a steady swell. In those months this route relies on Fast Ferries' conventional ship, which handles wind far better than small high-speed craft, though it can still run late. In spring and autumn, the Seajets boats are the ones most likely to be held in port by the coast guard in strong wind. With only a few sailings a week, a cancellation can mean a wait of a day or two. The operator will rebook or refund you; going via Milos can be a way round.