Syros is the administrative capital of the Cyclades and the island that feels most like a real town rather than a resort. Its port, Ermoupoli, is a working city of neoclassical buildings and a busy waterfront, with the medieval Catholic quarter of Ano Syros stacked on the hill above. People live here all year, so the cafés, shops and theatre stay open long after the summer crowds have gone.
Most travellers reach Syros from Piraeus or Rafina, but the Lavrio sailing is worth knowing about if you are staying on the south-east side of Attica, landing at Athens airport, or combining Syros with Kea and Kythnos. Lavrio is a small, low-key port, and boarding there is calmer than fighting through Piraeus in August.
The catch is frequency and speed. Only Blue Star Ferries works this line, on 2 to 3 days a week, and there is no high-speed boat. Depending on the itinerary the ship follows that day, you are on board for anything from about 3 hr 15 min to 5 hr 35 min. That makes it a relaxed, good-value crossing rather than a quick transfer, so plan it as a travel day.
Before you book, check which days the ship runs in your week and how long that particular sailing takes, since the two can differ a lot. If you are bringing a car, reserve early: vehicle space on a twice-weekly ship is limited. Fares are low, with one adult from €18 on the date we checked.
