Ferry from Naxos to Amorgos (Katapola).

Amorgos is the long, rugged island at the south-eastern edge of the Cyclades, a place for walking, swimming and slow days. It is quieter and wilder than Naxos, and the ferry from Naxos is the most common way in.

The one thing to know before booking is that Amorgos has two ports. Katapola, in the south of the island, is the main harbour, about 5 km from Chora, the capital. Aegiali, in the north, is a relaxed beach village about 17 km from Chora and is actually the port closest to Naxos. The two are about 25 km apart by road, roughly a 40 minute drive, so choosing the right port can save you a transfer.

Naxos is the natural jumping-off point: it has an airport, ferries from Piraeus, and frequent onward links. Many travellers spend a few days on Naxos, then head to Amorgos for walking and swimming, and then continue through the Small Cyclades to Koufonisia, Donousa, Schinoussa or Iraklia.

Before you book, match the boat to your port and budget. Seajets is quick but costs much more. Blue Star is cheap, carries cars and is reliable in the wind, but runs only a few days a week to each port. The little Express Skopelitis runs almost daily and is very cheap, but it calls at the Small Cyclades on the way, so it takes about 3 hr 45 min to Katapola and over 5 hours to Aegiali.

Amorgos sits out on the eastern edge of the group, and on meltemi days in July and August the small boats on this route, the Express Skopelitis and the Seajets fast boats, are the first to stay in port. Blue Star is the sturdiest option but serves each port only three or four days a week, so a cancellation can mean switching ports or waiting a day. If that happens, ask the operator about the next sailing to either Katapola or Aegiali, or a refund, and remember that the two ports are 40 minutes apart by road.